July 5: Quebec to Cap a L’Aigle
Once again, we had to consult about the tides and currents from Quebec to Tadoussac, our next ultimate destination. The guidebooks are all very clear - it is very important to time leaving Quebec to take best advantage of the current and tide. There are almost no places to stop between Quebec and Cap a L’Aigle, around seventy miles away, a good day’s travel for any boat - anchoring is highly discouraged because of the lack of natural harbors, and there are very few marinas available. The Quebec lock is open from seven am until one am. Seventy miles is a long way for a boat that averages 6 or 7 knots. It’s not unusual for boats to leave the marina in the evening and tie up outside the lock in preparation for a three am departure. Fortunately for us, the tide and current cycle dictated our departure time for seven am, just as the lock opened for the day, and we cruised right through and out into the river.
There are two channels outside of Quebec - the North channel takes you past a large waterfall and directly along the Laurentian mountain chain. The South channel is perhaps a little quicker, but also is the main shipping channel. To us, this was a no-brainer of a decision. Plus we had excellent weather - light winds, calm seas, and morning overcast giving way to pretty blue skies. We’d read many a blog from other Down East Circle Route travelers whose passage from Quebec was not nearly so nice. We felt pretty lucky we had such a beautiful day to make this long cruise. We did indeed pass Montmorency waterfalls, as well as several small towns dominated by large churches, and a few ski slopes. Such charming and beautiful countryside!
The water temperature drops steadily as we move Eastward; as the day progressed we added one layer after another, and broke out the warm hats, thick socks, and mittens. We were both glad it wasn’t windy as well!
We arrived at the small French-speaking marina around four-thirty pm, and were all settled in for a fun dinner of Cajun-seasoned mackerel. Tommie loved the skins!
After dinner we took a short walk around and Dan spotted a Black-crowned Night-Heron on the breakwater. We hope this is the first of new wildlife we’ll be seeing in the coming days.
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