January 5 - 7: Nassau

     We spent the night of our arrival in Nassau in Bay Street Marina.  The people there were incredibly friendly, the showers were excellent, and the place was handy to everywhere we needed to go.  It was showery but warm, and the winds were starting to pick up as we walked the half mile or so to the BTC store - the Bahamian equivalent of Verizon, except it is the only telephone/wireless service in the country.  We purchased sim cards for my phone and for our Mifi, a wireless hotspot device that promised internet access anytime, almost anywhere in the Bahamas.  (We have since found out that it does work well, but only if the cell towers are working...)  The part of Nassau we walked through is definitely the ordinary working neighborhood:  grocery stores, gas stations, the occasional strip mall with salons and small boutiques.  The cruise ships - there were six in port during our stay there - must have a different destination for their busloads of passengers.  We never got to see the more upscale shops, which are located in the Western section of the island.

     Because the weather was forecasting some strong winds, we decided to stay in Nassau, but left the marina for an anchorage.  We know first hand now why they are not really recommended.  Our second night in Nassau was quite a ride, with the winds really picking up, the waves slapping us around, and passing wakes from all size pleasure and commercial vessels rocking us.  There was a pretty steady driving rain, too, which found its way into the boat in more than one place.  Neither of us got much sleep that night and as the day wasn’t looking any different, we just stayed put, with two anchors out, to ride out the storm.  Dan puttered with water collection.   We found we can filter the rain water through coffee filters and add it to our water tanks.  

     Mid-afternoon Dan realized a nearby catamaran was adrift.  We launched the dinghy and he brought a line out to it, securing it to our boat and its anchor seemed to work its way back into the sand.  The owners, David and Lori, were ashore with their daughter Kashara.  When they came back, they returned our line, re-anchored, and invited us over for dinner.  It was excellent - curry with sweet potatoes, plantains, potatoes, and kale - with Indian flatbread and saffron rice.  They have been cruising for at least eight years and were filled with advice and encouragement for our journey.  During the course of our evening with them, the winds died down, the temperature had dropped to a very pleasant and much less humid 65, and the skies cleared.  Our third night in Nassau was   quiet and cool - great sleeping weather.

Tying the line to Ubuntu.  We cruisers have to look out for each other!

     We went ashore in Nassau again the next day - Thursday - for some more errands.  Dan went in search of propane refill and I walked to the post office to get some stamps.  We also visited BTC again because the Mifi needed some tweaking.  We ended up having to leave the propane tank for the night but decided to change our anchorage for one a little further out, away from the hustle-bustle of Nassau harbor.  There are several small cays and islands on the Northeastern side of East Providence Island (where Nassau is) and we anchored off Athol Island.  From there we could see the more affluent section of Paradise Island, and beyond it Salt Cay where ocean waves were pouring over the top of the short cliffs.  The winds had died considerably but the open seas were still active.  We had hoped to do some snorkeling but it was too rough on the side of Athol that had a few reefs, so we just made do with our side where the water was clear enough to see that there was little but sand and occasional discarded engine parts. 

Salt Cay.  The white is water, from the waves crashing over the island.