December 17 -20, 2015 What do you
think you're doing?
Once you start thinking about crossing
over to the Bahamas there are many things to consider. Among them
are, where to depart from, where to enter the Bahamas, what last
minute supplies you might need, groceries, hardware, fuel , water,
etc.
We have chosen to depart from the South
end of Key Largo, which is on a latitude that is South of our first
Bahamas destination, Cat Cay. This need to be to the South is in
whole due to the flow of the Gulf Stream, which flows North at 2 to 3
knots. As our boat speed is somewhere around 6 knots this 2-3 knot
current is an important factor. Our plan is to ride with the Gulf
Stream current as much as possible. The distance across for us will
be 80 miles.
The next biggest consideration is the
weather for the crossing. There must be no North winds the day we
cross the Gulf Stream, as Northbound current against wind from the
North spells Rough Seas. We have recently been in a northerly period
and now the wind has moved to the East, things are lining up.
So for provisioning, in part due to
expected higher costs of everything in the islands we have stocked up
on groceries. Water and fuel are also to be considered. Most
cruisers carry extra water in jugs, sometimes on deck.
The day we landed at Tarpon Basin, at
the recommended Municipal Landing, when we were putting our trash in
the dumpster, we spoke with Dean, the head custodian for the
property. He was very accommodating and told us all the services they
had to offer, rest rooms, WIFI, a nice air-conditioned public space in
the building, but he told us that they had some trouble with local
boat live-aboard folks, taking advantage of the situation, and making
the property their home.
Sunrise, Tarpon Basin
The next day we walked up Route One and
did some shopping. One of the things we bought was an extra 5 gallon
water jug. When we got back to the landing, Kathy had some internet
work to do, so I went to see if I could find a spigot to fill my new
water jug. A guy in a county truck was just leaving the lot as I
walked thru and he recognized I was looking for water, so he told me
where the tap was along the side of the building, sort of in the
back. I headed out beside the building, found the tap and was
skooched down at the tap filling my jug when out of nowhere, Dean
came around the corner and said in a kinda loud voice, “What do you
think you're doing?” I said, “Filling my water jug?” He said,
you know you're not supposed to do that, you know everything is
locked up, you've seen the locks!”
I hadn't seen any locks nor did I know
I wasn't supposed to take water. I said, and I know it sounded lame,
“The guy in the truck told me I could.” Deans says, “What guy,
what truck, you need to get out of here.” I said, “The white
truck.” Even more lame, I know, then I had to gain the offensive, I
said, “Dean, we talked to you yesterday, my wife Kathy and I at the
dumpster, you said... At which point his face turned confused, then
friendly, then apologetic. “Oh I am sorry, I thought you were
someone else, (one of the local bums), you go right ahead, get your
water, I am so sorry.” I said, “I'll stop, I don't want to make
trouble” Dean said, No, it's perfectly OK, we build the waterfront
for visiting boaters, It's the live-aboards that ruin it for
everyone.”
Well that was a tense situation, but we
came out of it alright. Dean is right, many of the live-aboards
cause trouble, their boats are obvious: blue tarps and junk piled
sky-high, filthy looking, and anchored nine ways to Sunday. And in
the end, when one of their boats sinks in the harbor, there is no-one
to clean up the mess, the people just move to the woods, or onto another
scruffy-looking boat. Almost every out-lying harbor has a sunken
boat or two, masts marking the spot. We are anchored next to one
right now.
But on the plus side, we were entertained this evening by three or more manatees who were swimming lazily about, between us and a catamaran. It's hard to get a good picture of them - they were only sticking their noses up to breathe, and they occasionally slapped a tail at us.
But on the plus side, we were entertained this evening by three or more manatees who were swimming lazily about, between us and a catamaran. It's hard to get a good picture of them - they were only sticking their noses up to breathe, and they occasionally slapped a tail at us.
Manatee tail in the foreground, 2nd manatee behind.
December 21, 2015 Tommie Training
This morning we decided to go across
Tarpon Basin to a more remote area to go for a swim. As we had
recently up-graded the Tommie retrieval system and we thought it was
time to let her try it out. It took two tries to get her into the
dinghy, then she and I drifted astern. When we were about 40 feet
astern I let her go, not happy she prowled the the dinghy staying
low. Then I got to the oars with the intention of coming close
enough to the Willie Dawes so that she might jump to the float, then
climb up the heavy braided lines. Well she had her own ideas and at
about 25 feet from the Willie she had had enough, and leaped into the
water and made time for the Willie. She went right for the float but
made a glancing attempt then started swimming for the bow, yowling
all the time. I made chase and at the bow she doubled back, then
came to the dinghy where she grabbed the fendering and pulled herself
aboard. I got hold of her and we drifted astern in the wind. Once
again we approached from astern, but this time she went to the bow of
the dinghy and made a mighty leap, right to the wooden rail of the
Willie, and climbed right aboard. Am I glad that isn't a varnished
rail! Not too happy, and soaked to the skin, Tommie hid under the
cockpit. Guess what? She didn't trust us for almost an hour, but
she's no worse for wear, and a darned strong swimmer.
Tommie scopes out the distance from the dinghy to the Willie.
"I think maybe I can swim there..."
"Ok, I'm going for it! Yeeaaaah!"
December 22, 2015 Window opening, or is
it?
Well, our weather window is
approaching, tomorrow night, only problem is we have not received our
“Pet Importation Permit” We sent the application on December 8,
$10 permit fee, $5 for them to fax it to us, $5 fee for a money
order, $50 to fed-ex it to the Bahamas, now three phone calls at $5 a
pop to find out if they have it and in fact are going to get it back
to us. Not to mention the international Vet check-up we got in Palm Bay, (which has probably expired). Yesterday, they said tomorrow the permits would come. Today they say maybe.
We decided to prepare as though we
would get the permit, hate to miss a weather window opportunity. We
head ashore to grocery shop what we hope to be the last time
stateside. As we were approaching the supermarket Kathy's phone buzzed.
“We got it” she exclaimed. We're going to the Bahamas! To the UPS Store to print out the
emailed FAX, or the Faxed email, not sure which. We also shipped
home a box of East coast charts that we won't be needing for a while.
Then on to the grocery, then back to
the boat, and haul anchor to head to Community Harbor where we will
get fuel and water (legally) tomorrow. We arrived just before dusk,
anchored in 4 feet of water. There are many boats here, and someone is holding a large, loud party on one of them. Worshipping the solstice maybe?
Things look like a go for tomorrow night's crossing to the Bahamas.
Things look like a go for tomorrow night's crossing to the Bahamas.
What a post! Suspense, thrills, action...
ReplyDeleteWet cats... Poor Tommy! Found your experience at the water tap really interesting, given that in cruising circles I frequent "liveaboard" is a term of pride and respect, not the mark of a pariah! Guess we have something to learn about FL politics. :-(
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