30, 31 July, 2015 SE-NW, Canso,
Bras d'Or Lake, St Peters
We had chosen Havre Boucher because of
its complete protection, it is basically a pond with a narrow
entrance, and a forecast of strong SE winds. Well, it blew from the
NW all nite long and well into the morning, which made for a windy
nite in HB, but the narrow entrance kept any foul sea out. We were
the only boat at anchor, we could have had 1000 feet of rode out and
not bother anyone.
We got a leisurely start out, about
1100, and rounded the point into Canso Strait. I was glad I had read
the guides and knew it was somewhat industrialized, otherwise I had
this picture of a wild high-sided, narrow northern pass, which it was
once before the earthen cause-way, bridge, and lock were built. Now
it is a deep-water port with oil terminals, an open pit mine tearing
down one entire hill-side, and even with all that the lock-master
said we were the first boat in the lock since he came on at 0600.
The lock, which dropped us only a
couple feet had some current flowing thru it and I made a less than
stellar landing down current, then the lock-master tied us right up
tight, which made our lines get tight when the water dropped. It was
the most loosely run lock we have seen since the Erie Canal lock with
no lines! But soon we were thru it with only a slight bruise on my
docking abilities.
The current was with us the rest of the
strait so we moved right along soon turning to the East into Lennox
Passage. Eight miles into LP we called the operator of the bascule
bridge and asked for an opening. He was obliging, to a point, as
when he opened the bridge he only puts it up just high enuf, then
says “Just stay to the right and you should be all set” Wow, how
much harder would it be to put it all the way up We stayed to the
right and everything was alright.
When we were approaching the bridge I
had to shift into neutral a couple times, and once the prop shaft
went into reverse when it shouldn't have, so as soon as we cleared
the bridge we found a spot to drop the anchor and have a look at
things. I didn't want to get into the upcoming St Peters lock and
have a shift cable come undone.
I discovered that a pin had dropped out
of the shift lever in the cockpit and was allowing the handle to move
on the shaft sometimes shifting, sometimes not. I looked thru the
bolt bins and found a suitable temporary replacement. With the new
bolt and some electrical tape we were soon back in business. On to St
Peters and Bras Dor Lake.
Reading the cruising guide can't
prepare you for the entrance to St Peters lock into Bras Dor Lake.
It says , “you won't see the opening until you clear the
lighthouse. Well, it is a 90 degree right turn around the light,
then another 90 degree left turn into the canal and lock, so it
really looks like a trick and that you are going to end up on a
beach.
The lock area is completely protected
and when no one at the lock answered the radio I put Kathy ashore at
the seawall to investigate/ wake them up. Turns out they were on
their way back from opening and closing the swing bridge at the other end
of the canal, they operate both the lock and bridge, the canal is
only a quarter mile long if that.
Soon we were in the lock and waiting
for the guys to drive to the bridge, open that, and signal for us to
proceed. Another high point, Bras d'Or Lake.
We stopped at the end of the canal,
tied to the seawall, and had a nice supper of grilled chicken and broccoli. After supper we walked up to town, just over the hill and
returned with our handcart loaded with groceries, ice and Ginger
Beer. As the moon rose, we let go our lines at the seawall and
headed over to anchor among other cruising boats just off the town
marina in Strachan Bay.
On Friday the fog had come for a visit.
We decided to stay put, get some chores done and enjoy the
solitude, even though we were in a fairly busy harbor. We were in
easy reach of the marina WIFI so caught up on business, and capped
the night off by going ashore to hear some “Easy Listening Music”
at the Bras d'Or Lake Inn.
The three piece band Echo played a mix
of 70's soft rock mixed with some country tunes, some of them at quite a clip. Two gals on guitars
and a guy playing bass. He was rather rotund and wore a t-shirt that
said, “Worlds Okayest Bass Guitarist” We shared a piece of layer
cake and chatted with some folks from Ontario, who were driving all
around the Maritimes for the week. Yesterday Halifax, tomorrow PEI,
there was mention of them departing at 0200. It was late for us,
2130 (9:30 PM), we headed back to our yacht.
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