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        We stayed at Otter Island for two nights.  The days were beautiful, the nights were calm, the scenery was gorgeous.  Dan felt well enough to row ashore and explore a little, coming back with driftwood and planking.  I put together lists of what to pack to bring ashore and what else needed doing.  It was a very restful couple of days.   

Tuesday, June 4, dawned clear and placid calm, and we decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and make our way home.  We took our time, arriving in Camden Harbor just after noon.  Our friend Gretchen had offered us the use of her car to help us get stuff home, as we had no vehicle.  After we tied up at the town landing dock, I walked up the street to drop a bag at home and then over to Gretchen’s to pick up her car.  It was a little daunting to drive again, after nearly two years.  I was glad tourist season has only just begun and I didn’t have too much traffic to deal with.  Camden can be very crazy in the summer.  

        Home!  Where we can take baths in the clawfoot tub, do our laundry without worrying about timing or quarters.  Where I don’t have to displace everything on the sofa to dig under the cushions for canned goods.  Where we can spread the yoga mat out and have plenty of space to stretch and not be in each other’s way.  (These little things are enough to make you giddy with pleasure!) We’ve been gone almost two years.  We’ve visited three countries and twenty-four states.  We’ve cruised into or through four of the Great Lakes, about a dozen canals, and transited nearly 200 locks.  I was able to visit cousins and spend time with all of my siblings. We’ve made countless friends and reconnected with friends we haven’t seen in years.  We’ll have memories to last a lifetime.  Now it’s time to figure out what the next adventure might be.

Our Great Loop.  I had to draw in the Canadian portion - the track line reset in Wisconsin because we spent so much time there.

Tommie wasn’t sure about leaving the boat, but she’s ok as long as Dan is there to sprawl over.  

Maine

         We stayed in Mystic until the morning of Weds May 29th.  We left the Seaport Museum on Tuesday morning, but anchored in the river just across from it when we realized we’d missed the bridge opening.  Since it opens only once an hour, that meant losing not just an hour’s worth of tide, but also the chance to get farther than Fisher’s Island (at the mouth of the Mystic River) and the weather wasn’t going to be good for the anchorage there.  So we just stayed by the Museum for one more day.  We took a dinghy ride down to town to walk around and have an ice cream.  Neither of us had been to town before, so it was a nice little visit.

On Weds morning we picked up and left and cruised along the New England shore all day, coming to a stop in Mattapoisett Harbor, Mattapoisett MA.  I think it really dawned on us then just how close we were to Maine and home.  

Thursday (May 30) was a showery kind of day, windy and spitting rain most of the time.  We navigated from below and got through the Cape Cod Canal to the marina in Sandwich, where we holed up for the afternoon and night.  We could see the white caps out on Cape Cod Bay and weren’t interested in getting out there just yet.

Friday was a much nicer day.  We had talked about crossing Cape Cod Bay to Provincetown, but the day was so beautiful, we pushed on to Gloucester instead.  This was the second crossing of this Bay where we had no humpback whale sightings.  We’ve spent a lot of time watching humpbacks cavort here, but the only whale to make an appearance was one little minke.  We hadn’t seen any in the fall of 2022 when we made our way south, either.  

This was also the day I came down with a nasty head cold that I eventually passed on to Dan, and which is keeping us both pretty low key.  We’ve been very, very lucky with our health - apart from a cold Dan had over a year ago, and our only bout of Covid last Thanksgiving, we’ve been very fortunate not to catch anything.  But, we did spend a day with a toddler (Leo) who had a bit of a runny nose, and I did take him into the Children’s Museum in Mystic Seaport Museum where we played with several toys.  That’s a good way to acquire some germs.  I spent much of Friday huddled next to the heater in the salon while Dan managed the helm on the flying bridge. 

Maine! Jewell Island. And lobster pots. 

Saturday June 1 we made it all the way from Gloucester to Maine.  We anchored off Jewell Island in Casco Bay (Portland).  We celebrated with a round of Looper Beer.  We had planned a round of visits on this trip home - our son in Dorchester MA, our son in South Portland, friends in Harpswell - but we notified everyone that we were not going to share our cold and we’d see them another time, waving as we passed by their areas.  Sunday June 2, I felt well enough to join Dan on the flying bridge, while he bundled up in a sleeping bag.  It was a lovely day, if chilly, and we made a good passage all the way to Muscongus Bay, where we moved into the little cove on Otter Island.  This is a spectacularly scenic little anchorage, big enough for maybe two boats if one of them is relatively small, and here we will stay while Dan fights through the worst of the cold.  (He is two days behind me in the illness.)  We’ll probably get home to Camden before the end of this week, but for now we are enjoying the serenity of our surroundings.  

  

Mystic Seaport Museum

         We left Manisquan just after dawn on Friday morning, May 24 for our run to New York City.  Seas were a little rolly, but nothing we couldn’t deal with.  Instead of the hustle-bustle of the NYC Harbor anchorage, we turned off just before the Verrazzano Narrows bridge into Gravesend Bay, Coney Island.  It was a very pleasant little anchorage in which we waited for the late afternoon tide.  We even had a view of the edge of Manhattan.  We raised anchor about 4 pm and were able to get through the East River and just into Long Island Sound before dusk.  We found another quiet, new-to-us anchorage off Hart Island, near City Island.  

We’ve repeated this twice a day movement through the Sound, because the tide and current just aren’t timely this week, but the Sound itself was very calm.  We passed several clammers tonging just off Long Island.  

  From Hart Island we went to a neat little man-made harbor off Eaton’s Neck until 2 pm.  The land here was all owned by the JP Morgan family, who dug out the harbor.  It’s all still owned by the one family (though I’m not sure it’s still the Morgan family) and they pay taxes on the land under the water.  The USCG has a search and rescue base here, but other than that, it’s all private land and while they allow anchoring, they do not allow anyone to go ashore.  Apparently that’s sometimes a problem for local party boats, and a police boat sits at the ready at the dock to make sure everyone complies with the rules.  While we sat there on Saturday of Memorial Weekend, several local boaters came in for the afternoon and that police boat made its presence known.  Nobody went ashore.  When we left Eaton’s Neck we went to Port Jefferson for the night.  

Sunday, May 26 we got word that our son and daughter-in-law wanted to meet us in Mystic CT to spend Memorial Day together, so we got dockage at the Mystic Seaport Museum Marina.  This is a small marina right inside the history museum.  With the price of the slip comes free museum passes for everyone on the boat and their guests.  We had to do this day in two hops, too, stopping first at Horton Lane Beach, off Horton Point, Long Island, before crossing the bay to go upriver to Mystic.

The fog set in as we neared the Connecticut coast line.  We haven’t seen any fog for many months.  Dan booted up the radar and I kept lookout as we crossed the ferry paths out of New London and inched up the river along with all the Memorial Weekend boaters who were heading home after a day on the Sound.  We got to the Seaport Museum around 6:30 pm, and tied off at the seawall near the whaling ship Charles W Morgan.  The Museum grounds close at 6 pm.  It was pretty cool to have it to ourselves!  

We walked to town to meet Will and Tam and our grandson Leo at the restaurant they chose for dinner and all of us drove back to the boat for a walk around the grounds and a little time catching up on the boat.   On Monday May 27 they came back to the Museum to have lunch with us on board and then tour the buildings.  I had some good Granny time with Leo - strolling the grounds while he napped - and his parents had a chance to explore a bit on their own.  After Leo woke we all went aboard the Sabino for short harbor tour, with a guide narrating the history of everything we saw along the way.  It was so good to see them and spend time with them!  And what a fun splurge to stay two nights right inside the museum. 

  

New Jersey

         We left Philadelphia just before noon on Saturday May 18th.  It was a drizzly kind of day, so we spent the morning doing boat chores instead of walking around town.  We had thought of going back to Delaware City for the night, but the wind and current were with us on Delaware Bay, so we just kept going, and we anchored in the Cohansey River for the night.  This is a winding river through a lot of swamp just off the Bay, very quiet and pretty, if buggy, and getting this far on Saturday made short work of arriving at Cape May the next day.  

        Since we have never gone ashore here, we elected to take a slip at Utsch’s Marina for Sunday night.  We were all tied up shortly after noon, and immediately set off for a long walk to explore the historic beach area of Cape May.  Lots of Victorian summer cottages turned into Inns and summer rentals here, though the beaches were pretty deserted. 

        We had an early dinner at one of the restaurants opposite the beach and watched the Phillies beat the Nationals on the big screen.  Back at the marina we stopped to visit our new friends Roger and Anne, whom we’d met in Delaware City.  They were awaiting a weather window to travel outside of New Jersey.  Dan and I went inside.

        This was our third trip through New Jersey on the NJICW.  Last year I’d written down all the bridge information for the Cape May-Atlantic City route, and I pulled out the handwritten notes to help guide us as we set off on Monday morning (May 20).  This area has a reputation for being shallow and shoaly, but vigilance and a slow throttle served us well and the trip was uneventful until we reached the Margate Bascule Bridge.  When Dan called them for an opening, the Dorset Avenue bridge responded, informing us they were down for repairs.  Dorset would have been the next bridge and is one of two just before Atlantic City, which had been our destination for the night.  Change of plans, Dan told me, turning into the little water corridor lined with condos, we’ll anchor in Ventnor City tonight, and backtrack to the Ocean City inlet tomorrow. 

        So that’s what we did.  We had a peaceful night in Ventnor, and on Tuesday morning we back through Margate and out the inlet at Ocean City and up the outside of New Jersey to the inlet at Atlantic City.  It was only about eight miles, so we didn’t mind the swells too much, and we were back on the NJICW before noon.  The winds picked up and we were glad to be traveling inside, where we were relatively protected.  We found a nice anchorage at Surf City in Barnegat Bay that night.  From there it was a short run to our next anchorage in front of the yacht club in Brick Township, just outside the Point Pleasant Canal.  The weather was unsettled and we had some rain, some wind, and some thunderstorms while we sat at anchor that night and the next morning.  

        We had ‘won’ a free night at Hoffmann’s Marina in Brielle, which sits on the Manisquan Inlet - I say it in quotes because the person who actually won it didn’t want it and we volunteered to take it off their hands - so we had a very quick cruise today (Thursday May 23) to the marina.  This place is nicely situated for a quick exit from the NJICW and a good run up to NYC if the conditions are right.  Everything is in our favor for tomorrow except the current through the East River.  If we want to get all the way beyond New York City into Long Island Sound tomorrow, we’ll have to wait til late afternoon for a favorable current.  With the long days, we might just do that, but it will mean pausing for a little while behind the Statue of Liberty.  Either way, a trip to New York is the plan for tomorrow.  Hard to believe that soon we’ll be back in New England!  

Tommie has become a lap cat on the flying bridge. 

Philadelphia

         Philadelphia is a side trip, and not too many Loopers take the time to go up the Delaware River to this wonderful city.  This was a relatively recent decision of ours.  I’ve never been here, Dan was only here once, and he can’t remember the reason why or what he spent time doing.  For a cruiser, it’s pretty easy half-day cruise at 6 knots up river from Delaware City, if the tide is with you.  There are several little reasonable marinas tucked in among the riverfront condoes, and we chose Pier 3 to stay at.  This is between Penn’s Landing and the Benjamin Franklin bridge, and everything in the historic district is walkable from here.  Public transit (buses and subways) are also available at Penn’s Landing, so virtually everywhere nearby is accessible.  

        We set off at dawn and arrived before noon and set off on foot shortly afterward to find a Philly cheese steak for lunch.  We found Sonny’s on Market street, which we later heard was the second most popular place to go according to locals.  It certainly was busy when we were there.  

        We have spent a day and a half roaming this town, two nights at the marina. (May 16-17)  We walked down Elfreth Alley.  We visited Benjamin Franklin’s house, print shop, post office and grave.  (People throw pennies on the grave because Franklin was a penny-pincher.)  We saw the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall.  We toured the US Mint and the Jewish-American Museum.  We’ve seen the Rocky statue and the steps of the Philadelphia Art Museum that he made famous in the movie.  We walked up and down Chinatown, and enjoyed lunch at the Reading Terminal Market.  We’ve taken the Big Bus tour that gives a really nice overview of what is here.  Our tour guide was also a history professor and had a lot to say about the architecture, the various levels of society, and who did what where.  We then walked much of tour’s route to get a closer look at many of the buildings, and we stopped at a couple beer gardens for refreshment in the afternoons.  

        There are many, many things we didn’t see - the Revolutionary War Museum, the Constitution Museum, the many Art Museums - but we feel we’ve gotten some of the highlights.  This is a very proud city filled with art and history; it’s worth coming back to.  I also have to mention the people who live here.  They are, to a person, friendly and welcoming, and eager to offer help, directions, and advice.  Several times we stopped to consult our map and each time a passerby stopped to offer cheerful assistance.  As you’re cruising between New Jersey and the Chesapeake, you should seriously consider a side trip to Philadelphia!

A side note:  it is not always sunny in Philadelphia.  We didn't see the sun until this morning, and then only briefly.  It's supposed to drizzle the rest of the day.  We are awaiting the tide to take us back downriver to Delaware City.

Rock Hall

          We thought we’d hug the Virginia shore as we made our way up into the Chesapeake, but the weather forecast didn’t look good for crossing the Bay to Rock Hall in the near future, so we took advantage of the weather at hand and crossed over to Crisfield on Thursday (May 9) and then proceeded to follow the exact same path we traveled last year - Crisfield to an anchorage in the Honga River and then to an anchorage near Queenstown just south of Kent Narrows.  This put us in Rock Hall on Sunday, May 12.  

We love Rock Hall.  Such a friendly small town.  We have already many memories of this place.  This is where my cousin Denny lives. This is where we first ate soft shell crabs. This is where Tommie jumped ship and where half the town kept an eye out for her for two weeks, and where the local feral feline caretaker lent us traps to catch her.  Denny was there to greet us, and came back later in the afternoon with his wife Laura so we could all go out to dinner and catch up on what’s been happening since we saw them last.  

Dan & Bonnie.  Notice the Lewis R French sweatshirts!

        Rock Hall is also where a long time friend of Dan’s lives with her husband.  She was a regular schooner passenger, not just on the schooner we used to own, but also the schooner Dan worked on as First Mate when he was in college, and often sailed with her family.  Bonnie and her brother Vin collected us and brought us to her home on Monday.  We had an incredible spread of food for lunch and then walked it off with a visit to the nearby Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge.  What a gorgeous spot!  We could look out over the marsh and straight across the Bay to Baltimore.  We didn’t stay long enough to see much of the wildlife, but we did manage to bring home a couple of ticks.  Bonnie’s husband Bob put together barbecued chicken and roasted potatoes for supper, and Bonnie’s mother Susan came over to make it a real family experience.  We had such a nice day reconnecting and reminiscing.  

        And to make the visit to Rock Hall a trifecta, on Tuesday (May 14), our cruising friends from Sequel, Eddie and Gail, drove over from their home on the Delaware shore to meet us for lunch.  As Gail puts it “Boating friends are the best.”  We have met so many people on our big adventure; some of them, like Eddie and Gail, have become ‘forever’ friends.  We know when we part, it’s not forever, it’s just for now.  We spent a great afternoon together.  

    

    This morning (Weds May 15) Denny came out in the rain to see us off.  We will see him again this summer at a family wedding.  We headed off into the foggy Bay, out of the Chesapeake and on up to Delaware City.  This is a charming town similar to Chesapeake City, but much smaller and much quieter.  The City Marina is one long dock in a narrow canal that used to be the route into Chesapeake Bay before they built the Chesapeake and Delaware canal.  We took a walk around town after dinner, before the rain set back in, and we met another cruising couple from Maine.  Turns out we have mutual friends back home.  Small world!  More forever friends.  

Delaware City 

Manteo to Virginia

    

    We moved from Ocracoke to Roanoke Island (where the Lost Colony with Virginia Dare was established and subsequently disappeared from) and the town of Manteo for two nights.  The fog dropped in as we reached Manteo harbor, and we felt our way in just before dark and dropped the hook in what we hoped was equidistant between the town and the small island where the First Friday Festival was going strong with loud music and lots of cheering.  

         The next day (Saturday May 4) we awoke to a beautiful calm morning, with a view of the Elizabeth II, the replica of the boat that brought the Lost Colonists from England.  We moved Willie Dawes over to the town’s free dock, and walked uptown to the Ford dealership that professed to rent cars.  Well, they claimed to have no cars available and we strongly suspect they never have rental cars available, but the people were exceptionally nice, giving us water and discussing our options, and the retired owner gave us a ride back to the town dock.  

        We called an Uber and got a ride across the bridge to Bodie Island, to Kill Devil Hills where the Wright Brothers National Monument and Museum was.  Our Uber driver gave us a short tour of the ‘old’ houses on the seashore that have survived many hurricanes before dropping us off at the National Park.  It was an incredible museum - very informative - and we spent about an hour in the museum and another hour touring the grounds to see where the Wright brothers’ first flights actually took place.  Very cool, we were so glad we toured it.  

        We walked to a nearby restaurant for lunch and Ubered back across the bridge to Manteo.  Unfortunately their marine museum was closed, so we spent some time just shopping around in town and returned to the dock to find a strong SE wind whipping up Shallowbag Bag and the harbor.  We were on the lee side of the dock, so we just doubled our lines, but we helped a fellow cruiser who was being blown flush up against the dock by tucking in extra fenders.  We spent the second night there at the dock.

        Sunday dawned calm and pretty and we set off fairly early, as the SE winds were forecast to pick up again and Willie doesn’t really care for a following sea.  We made it into the Albermarle and Chesapeake Canal without a problem and found ourselves at Coinjock just after noon.  We’ve heard a lot about Coinjock - this is thee place to stay for people transiting the Virginia Cut.  The town in unincorporated and offers nothing for the passers-through, and the marina is basically one long face dock with a restauarant and small ship’s store.  But they certainly know what they’re doing - they line people up as close as possible to each other.  Our anchor was literally overhanging the swim platform of Miss Lillee from Texas in front of us, and the bow of the boat behind us was about a foot away from our dinghy.  By dusk the entire face dock was packed with cruisers, and there were boats rafted to some of them.  

        Most of us ate at the restaurant - it’s famous for their prime rib, and you must reserve the meal in advance.  They offer a 16 oz or a 32 oz steak.  Dan ordered the smaller one, and it’s given us two meals so far.  I’m not that fond of prime rib, but Dan said it was great.  

        Monday, May 6th, we finished the Virginia Cut without incident, fueling up at Atlantic Yacht Basin just before the Great Bridge (best fuel price on the East Coast!) and spent a relatively quiet night at the free dock in Portsmouth VA.  Relatively quiet because the ferry that shuttles people across the Elizabeth River blows its horn every twenty minutes for every departure from about 5:30am to about 11pm.  It was a new moon, and the high tide, which routinely washes over the dock, was up over the concrete steps.  This area is a geological subduction zone; not only is the sea level rising, but the land is sinking, and this is causing some major flooding throughout the entire Norfolk region.  

        Tuesday we moved to Rebel Marine, Willoughby Spit, where our friends folksingers Jeanne McDougal and Bob Zentz collected us for dinner at Wickers, a seafood restaurant that began life at Jeanne’s grandparents’ house.  On the way we watched a submarine leave Norfolk.  This area is very, very busy with military ships.

        Today (Wednesday May 8) we toured the museums in Yorktown.  This is the town where Cornwallis surrendered the British Army to the Continental Army during the Revolutionary War.  It would be a few years before all the fighting stopped and the country of USA was recognized as official, but this place was where the end began.  There’s an excellent American Revolutionary War Museum, and a smaller but no less superb Waterman’s Museum, both within a short walk of the free town dock.  We capped our day there with dinner at the Yorktown Pub.  

From the Waterman's Museum - a local artist makes these models 

Revolutionary War Museum.  We watched the daily cannon firing.

        Now we are anchored in the quiet, well-protected Sarah’s Creek, across the York River from Yorktown.  We’ll continue our way north up the Chesapeake tomorrow.